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City guide · Thailand
Bangkok covers 1,568.7 km² and held an estimated 9,106,000 people in 2024, with about 17,400,000 in the metropolitan area around it. It is a flat river city with no single centre. The royal and religious core stands on the east bank of the Chao Phraya, the commercial towers stand several kilometres inland from it, and the two are joined by rail and by the river rather than by any street a visitor would choose to walk. Almost every complaint travellers make about Bangkok comes from ignoring that gap and trying to cross it by road at four in the afternoon. The heat is the other constraint. Bangkok is hot enough for long enough that the shape of a day — early start, indoor middle, evening outdoors — is set by the climate rather than by opening hours. Fifty districts, 180 sub-districts, and a visitor will realistically use six of them.
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Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen is a third-class royal monastery of the ordinary type standing on what is effectively a small square island in the canals west of the Chao Phraya, and it is the home temple of the Vijja Dhammakaya…
Source: OpenStreetMap contributors, Wikidata ·
District boundaries come from OSM administrative relations, so a district page holds exactly the places inside it — plus, for the islands and the coast, the nearest district by proximity.
The Chao Phraya organises the map. It runs through the city southward and empties into the Gulf of Thailand about 25 km south, and the river is what every other part of Bangkok is positioned against.
Rattanakosin, the old royal island in Phra Nakhon district, sits on the east bank and holds the Grand Palace and the City Pillar Shrine along with the temples most visitors come for. It is the one part of Bangkok that is walkable end to end, and it has almost no nightlife and few hotels.
Downriver from it, Chinatown runs along Yaowarat Road with the Sampheng lanes behind — old market neighbourhoods, dense, and best after dark.
Further east are the two business spines. Silom and Sathon carry the office towers and corporate headquarters; Sukhumvit Road runs southeast through several districts and carries the hotels, the shopping and most of the international restaurants. Between them, Siam and Ratchaprasong in Pathum Wan hold some of the largest shopping malls in Southeast Asia and the interchange that ties the rail network together.
Thonburi, the west bank, is the quiet half: fewer high rises, largely residential, and a short ferry crossing from the old town.
Bangkok is divided into fifty districts, or khet, subdivided into 180 sub-districts.
Checked 2026-08-25
Take the trains, take the boats, and treat a taxi as the option of last resort in the middle of the day.
The BTS Skytrain opened on 5 December 1999 with two lines and 23 stations; there are now 60 fully operated stations across the Silom and Sukhumvit lines, and the two cross at Siam, which is the interchange every route seems to pass through. Service hours are 05:00 to 01:00. The BTS is elevated, air-conditioned, and covers the modern city — Sukhumvit, Silom, Sathon, Siam — but it does not reach the old royal quarter.
The MRT does. The underground Blue Line runs a loop through the older half of the city, and its stations at Sanam Chai and Hua Lamphong are how most visitors now arrive in Rattanakosin and Chinatown without touching a road. BTS and MRT are separate systems with separate tickets; the interchanges are signposted walks, not a single gateline.
On the river, the Chao Phraya express boats run to a flag system — orange, yellow, green-yellow and red — where the flag on the bow tells a passenger which piers the boat will stop at and which it will skip. The piers sit next to the old town's main sights, which makes the river the fastest and by some distance the pleasantest north-south route in Bangkok. Cross-river ferries shuttle between the banks separately from the express services.
The khlong boats on Saen Saep are the local secret: fast, cheap, uncomfortable, and the only thing that beats the traffic on the east-west axis between the old town and Pratunam.
Taxis and tuk-tuks are the wrong instrument at the wrong hour. Bangkok's road traffic is genuinely severe, a metered taxi in an afternoon jam costs more time than money, and no rail journey in this city has ever been slower than the equivalent road journey at rush hour. Insist on the meter, or use an app that fixes the fare before the trip.
Checked 2026-08-25
Three to four. Two days cover Rattanakosin — the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, the ferry to Wat Arun — and the river that links them. A third takes Chinatown and a market, and a fourth allows either the Thonburi side or a day trip out of the city. Bangkok punishes a rushed itinerary more than most capitals, because the transfers between its halves eat the time a tighter plan assumes it has.
November to February, the cool dry months of the northeast monsoon. April is the hottest month, averaging 35.7°C, and the rainy season runs from mid-May through October with September the wettest month at 335.9 mm of rain. Bangkok is visitable year-round — the rain arrives in heavy short bursts rather than all day — but the difference between February and April is the difference between walking the old town comfortably and rationing the outdoor hours.
By MRT. The underground Blue Line, the Chaloem Ratchamongkhon Line, runs 48 kilometres with 38 stations and was Thailand's first underground metro; its stations at Sanam Chai and Hua Lamphong put a visitor in the old royal quarter and in Chinatown, and the line connects onward to the BTS. The road route between the two halves of Bangkok is the one every guide warns about, and the warning is correct.
They identify the service and therefore which piers the boat stops at. The operator runs an orange line between Nonthaburi and Rajsingkorn at a flat 18 baht, a yellow line between Nonthaburi and Sathorn at a flat 23 baht, a green-yellow line from Pakkret to Sathorn charging 16, 23 or 35 baht by section, and a red line between Nonthaburi and Sathorn at 32 baht. The operator lists all four as Monday-to-Friday services, so check its own timetable before planning a weekend crossing on one of them.
On the east-west axis, yes. The Khlong Saen Saep service, run by Family Transport, carries about 60,000 passengers a day on two lines: the Golden Mount line from Panfa Leelard pier near Wat Saket to Pratunam, and the NIDA line from Pratunam east to Wat Sriboonruang. It runs 05:30 to 20:30 on weekdays and to 19:00 at weekends, fares are 8 to 22 baht and tickets are bought onboard in cash. It is fast, loud, splashy and not a scenic cruise — a commuter service that happens to be the quickest way between the old town and Pratunam.
Early morning, late evening and for luggage — yes. Between mid-afternoon and mid-evening a taxi is the slowest way to cross Bangkok, and a rail journey that looks longer on the map will be shorter in practice. Insist on the meter rather than agreeing a price at the window, or use an app that fixes the fare before the trip. Tuk-tuks are a short-hop novelty, not transport, and are negotiated rather than metered.
Sukhumvit or Silom for a first visit, because both sit on the BTS and the rail network is what makes Bangkok manageable. Rattanakosin puts the great temples on the doorstep and is the quietest, most atmospheric choice, but it has the thinnest hotel stock and no Skytrain. Riverside, near a pier between Sathorn and the old town, is the compromise: express boats north to the sights, BTS east to everything else.
Set your days, your pace and the hours you actually want to be out. The planner works around closing days and travel time, and leaves room to eat.
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